Andrew Chick Ecology

It would come as no surprise that our journey to one of the remotest corners of Gujarat had a singular purpose: to see a bird.

We had booked a stay at Infinity Resorts, a remote retreat consisting of tidy rows of holiday bungalows and tents, situated near the western edge of India in the Greater Rann of Kutch.

For approximately £50, we arranged a morning safari complete with a ‘tiger striped’ jeep and driver, all in hopes of spotting some birds and, most importantly, tracking down the elusive Hypocolius.

What makes the Hypocolius so special is its unique status as the sole member of its family. While not particularly rare, the majority of these birds breed in Iran, Iraq, and Afghanistan, so are difficult to see. For birders, the Hypocolius is the holy grail of Indian birding —well worth the effort!

Our adventure began in the pre-dawn darkness, leaving the hotel at 6:00 a.m. The outing felt almost festive; we were joined by a driver, the hotel manager, the restaurant manager (carrying breakfast ), a bird guide, and a rather curious Indian guest dressed in a formal coat, sunglasses and headphones who spent much of the drive snapping selfies .

After an hour’s drive, we arrived in the middle of nowhere, waiting for the sun to rise. As we waited, a small white van pulled up, carrying three other birders—a Brit from Market Harborough, another from Northamptonshire, and one from Norway. We exchanged pleasantries!

We soon spotted a male and female Hypocolius feeding on Salvadora berries. Stunning and surprisingly cooperative. The Kutch region represents the westernmost extent of their migration range. Overhead, thousands of common cranes flew by, accompanied by numerous Marsh & Montagu’s harriers.

After savoring our time with the Hypocolius, we set off in search of other regional specialties. Before long, we spotted Variable & Persian Wheatears, flushed a Rock Eagle Owl, and flocks of Great Short-toed Larks. A full mornings list can be found here https://ebird.org/checklist/S210552301